As would be expected from a dedicated boulderer and co-founder of 'Beastmaker' the authors focus is as the sub-title says 'a fingers-first approach to becoming a better climber' the book however offers much more than that with chapters on tactics, flexibility and core amongst other things.

The writing feels like talking to a knowledgeable friend, informative and informal in the perfece balance. These work great for pulling straight down as positive edges, but as a side pull or an undercut the thumb catch comes into its own, making a crimpy pinch.As an intermediate/advanced rock climber, I believe that everybody can get something out of this book. The nice thing about it though, is that it makes you wonder if there is any point to hardcore training manuals for your 'average' experienced climber: Ned's approach is really not very scientific, and he is a beast - so his (arguably more basic) approach must work!

Then there the large sections dedicated to explaining the mechanics of the body going on in the background regardless of how you decide to train. I wanted to make it dead simple, and kind of interesting to look at: colourful, certainly not black and white, with photos in it, so you could just pick it up and flick through it, and hopefully pick something up. These are the sorts of contextual details that lend strength to his book and describe the direction he hoped to head with it. Further on, Ned explains how to design your system board training problems and how to structure your sessions.Jędrzej also enjoys playing the electric guitar, baduk, and reading articles on the science of sports training. The Tendon Hangs are an exercise that might already be familiar to you as Tyler Nelson's Density Hangs. That goes particularly for long endurance training, which requires 15 - 20 minutes of climbing on easy terrain or doing long bouts of Endurance Repeaters [6]. Beastmaking by Ned Feehally is designed to provide normal people – like you and me – with the tools we need to get the most out of our climbing. In the intro Ned says he has extracted the most useful and usable nuggets of information and is passing them on as simply as he can.

You’ll find lots of training advice and also little tricks from someone who knows what it takes to climb hard. A syntethized version of training for climbing, so it might work if you don't want to read too much, but I personally prefere the more scientifical aproach of Eric Horst. Ned Feehally is one of the World's top climbers and co-founder of Beastmaker which manufactures wooden fingerboards and climbing training apparatus.Throughout, the message remains clear and the overriding theme is that you’ll still need to put the effort in to make any gains. In that time, Feehally became one of the few to have flashed up to 8b+ or V14 and competed on the international circuit.